The Run
On rivers that carved this continent, salmon are disappearing — and the cultures, wildlife, and forests built around them for ten thousand years are disappearing with them.
Every summer in Bristol Bay, Alaska, something occurs that has no parallel anywhere else on Earth. Tens of millions of sockeye salmon turn their bodies away from the Pacific Ocean and begin swimming home. They stop eating. They change color, flushing crimson from gill to tail. They navigate thousands of miles of open water using the magnetic field of the planet and the chemical signature of the specific stream where they were born. They enter rivers against the current. They leap waterfalls. They fight until their skin tears and their fins erode to bone. And when they reach their birthplace, they spawn — and then they die. Their bodies dissolve into the river gravel, feeding the insects, algae, and young salmon that will follow them out to sea years from now. The run does not end. It completes a circle.
For the Dena'ina people of Bristol Bay, this circle has governed the rhythm of life for more than 4,000 years. In their language, salmon are not merely fish — they are relatives, seasonal visitors whose return is marked with ceremony, gratitude, and obligation. The word for a world without salmon does not exist in Dena'ina. It was never a concept anyone needed.
Today, that concept is becoming real.
The Yukon Goes Quiet
In the summer of 2021, the Yukon River experienced one of the most severe salmon collapses on record. Chinook salmon — the largest Pacific salmon species, the one the Athabascan peoples call king — failed to return in numbers that could sustain even subsistence harvest. State managers issued emergency closures. Families who had dried salmon for winter protein since before European contact arrived with empty racks. The following summer, 2022, the collapse deepened.
The Yukon chinook run is not just any fish run. It is the longest freshwater salmon migration on Earth — nearly 2,000 miles from the Bering Sea to spawning grounds in Canada's Yukon Territory. Fish that make this journey develop extraordinary fat reserves and muscular stamina found in no other salmon population. They are irreplaceable. And according to National Geographic, Yukon chinook populations have declined by roughly 60 percent since 1984. Nine distinct chinook salmon populations across the Pacific Northwest are now protected under the U.S. Endangered Species Act.
The collapse is not a single cause. It is a convergence. Ocean temperatures in the North Pacific have shifted dramatically, altering the distribution of the prey species that salmon depend on during their years at sea. Warming river temperatures compress the window in which fish can safely migrate — chinook begin to die when water exceeds 70°F. Decades of dam construction across the Pacific Northwest have blocked access to more than half the historical salmon habitat in the Columbia River Basin alone. The fish are caught between a warming ocean and a blocked river, with less room to survive every year.
"Salmon are not just food. They are the thread that holds together everything — the birds, the bears, the trees, the people. Pull that thread and you can feel the whole fabric loosen."
— Mary Pete, Yup'ik subsistence advocate, Bethel, AlaskaProtein, Culture, and Survival
The stakes are not abstract. In villages along the Yukon River, salmon account for as much as 80 percent of total protein consumed by residents across the year. Grocery stores in rural Alaska charge prices that no subsistence community can sustain — a gallon of milk in some villages exceeds $10, and fresh produce often does not arrive at all. The salmon run is not a cultural tradition layered over modern food security. It is the food security.
The Yup'ik and Dena'ina peoples represent two of the last intact, sustainable salmon-based cultures remaining in the world. In Bristol Bay alone, salmon constitute approximately 52 percent of all subsistence harvest. The bay's sockeye population — averaging 37.5 million fish per year through the two decades ending in 2010 — represents roughly 46 percent of the global wild sockeye abundance in any given year. The scale is staggering. Bristol Bay is not a regional fishery. It is a world fishery, and the Indigenous peoples who have stewarded it for millennia are watching it destabilize in real time.
PBS Nature has documented how these communities are navigating food insecurity as the runs thin. Elders describe teaching their grandchildren to dry salmon — the family's primary protein source — only to have nothing to work with. The closures don't just empty freezers. They sever the transmission of knowledge that has moved from hand to hand across a hundred generations. When the fish don't come, what cannot be taught cannot be recovered.
A brown bear intercepts a sockeye salmon at a falls on the Alaska Peninsula. Bears can consume 20 to 30 salmon per day during the run, gaining the fat reserves they need to survive winter. When the run thins, the bears go hungry — and the forest does too. — Lamont Mead / Pexels
The Forest Eats the River
The consequences of salmon decline extend far beyond human communities. Pacific salmon are what ecologists call a keystone species — one whose presence or absence restructures entire ecosystems in ways that dozens of other species depend on. When salmon die after spawning, their bodies become fertilizer. Nitrogen and phosphorus from the open ocean, locked inside the salmon's tissue, enters the riverbank and the surrounding forest. Researchers have detected marine-derived nitrogen in the rings of Sitka spruce trees growing hundreds of feet from salmon-bearing streams. The fish are literally feeding the forest.
Bears carry salmon carcasses up to 500 feet from streams to eat in privacy, inadvertently planting ocean nutrients deep into the forest floor. Eagles drop fish. River otters, mink, ravens — every scavenger in the riparian web draws a line back to the salmon. When the run thins, the entire web adjusts downward. Bears enter winter with lower fat reserves and higher cub mortality. Streamside vegetation, deprived of marine nitrogen, grows more slowly. In Alaska's Tongass National Forest — the largest temperate rainforest in the world — researchers have documented that trees growing near salmon streams are three times larger than trees of the same species growing away from them. The salmon built the forest.
This is the hidden mathematics of the run: one fish feeds not just the people who catch it, but the eagles who steal it, the bears who drag it into the woods, the insects that hatch from its decomposing body, the juvenile salmon that eat those insects, and the trees that grow taller in its shadow. Remove the salmon and you remove the engine of the whole system. What remains is quieter, smaller, and poorer in ways that accumulate over decades.
Left: Sockeye salmon school over gravel in a spawning tributary — an aerial perspective that reveals the density of a healthy run. Right: A male sockeye in full spawning coloration, the crimson body and hooked jaw marking peak reproductive condition. After spawning, this fish will not survive the week.
— National Geographic
The River Remembers
In 2014, the largest dam removal project in U.S. history was completed on the Elwha River in Washington State. Two dams had blocked salmon migration for over a century. Within years of their removal, chinook salmon were documented spawning in river sections that had not seen fish in living memory. By 2019, the chinook run in the upper Elwha had nearly doubled. The river had not forgotten what it was. The salmon had not forgotten either — they followed a molecular memory upstream to gravel beds their ancestors had used before the dams went in.
The Klamath River in Northern California is mid-transformation. Four dams are currently being removed in the largest dam removal project in American history — a decades-long promise to the Yurok, Karuk, and Hoopa Valley tribes, whose culture is inseparable from the river's salmon. In Washington State, the four Lower Snake River dams, which block access to some of the most productive remaining salmon habitat in the Lower 48, are under federal environmental review. The conversation about what we owe these rivers has shifted from whether to when.
"We removed those dams and the river came back faster than anyone predicted. The salmon came back. The bears came back. Nature has been waiting — it just needs the door opened."
— National Geographic, Elwha River restoration coverage, 2019The Dena'ina have a way of describing the relationship between humans and salmon that translates, roughly, as: we take care of each other. For ten thousand years, that was a description of reality. The people managed the rivers with the same care with which the rivers managed the land. The salmon came, the people took what they needed, the rest of the fish completed the circle. The forest grew tall. The bears grew fat. The children learned to split and dry and smoke. The knowledge moved forward.
Today that phrase is something between a memory and an aspiration. The salmon are still running — through warmer water, past older barriers, in diminishing numbers. They are doing their part. The question of whether we do ours is entirely a human one, and the answer will be written in whatever data someone reads fifty years from now when they look back at what we chose to do — or didn't — while the fish were still running.